I’m not just spouting hyperbole when I say GW’s Contrast paints really are a game changer. I’ve always been a speed-painter, preferring to get a whole army done to a fairly nice, tabletop standard, instead of spending hours lavishing minute detail on a single mini. My models will never win any painting awards, but combined as a force, they’ll look good on the table. So the release of the Contrast paint range has been an absolute delight for me.

Here, I paint a squad of Ork Kommandos using Contrast and washes almost exclusively. And the same methodology can be applied to nearly all the Ork infantry models. It’s a quick method and it’s enhanced if you’re neat and precise with it – which is fairly easy with Orks because of their over-the-top features, muscles, weapons and armour.

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From a white spray undercoat, paint the flesh with Cassandora Yellow wash.

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Over the yellow, apply a Beil-tan Green wash.

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For the fatigues, I opted for Contrast Skeleton Horde. But you could easily go for any number of other colours. Most of my Ork boys are wearing a mixture of drab browns, greys and black. Even the greens work quite well, as they’re much darker than my method for green skin.

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I used Contrast Snakebite Leather on the boots and straps. Because Contrast Skeleton Horde is so light, the Contrast Snakebite went right over the top. If you opt for a darker colour for the fatigues, you’ll have to avoid getting it on the boots and straps, leaving them white.

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Apply Contrast Black Templar on the gas masks, goggles, climbing ropes, fuses, and also the mouths and teeth. Use Contrast Flesh Tearers Red for the dynamite bundles. And Contrast Wyldwood for the knife handles and dynamite ties.

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Paint the metal – knives, armour, guns, ammo belts, canisters, toecaps – in Leadbelcher (normal paint). Pick out the teeth in Screaming Skull (normal paint). Then the few small details on the Nob and his base – the skulls in Contrast Skeleton Horde, cigar in Contrast Wyldwood, cigar ash and fallen masonry in Contrast Basilicanum Grey.

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Now add lashings of Nuln Oil wash over the metals. Still worth being careful not to splash it on other areas. An added bonus of this stage is that it ‘black lines’ these areas as well e.g. it nicely defines the ammo belts that sit on the models chest with a thin black outline.

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Then add lashings of Agrax Earthshade wash over the metals. This helps make them look old and battle-worn.

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Drybrush Mithril SIlver (normal paint) over the metal to represent scratches and damage. Use Contrast Flesh Tearers Red for the goggle lenses. And add a quick stipple of Dwarf Bronze (normal paint) and Abaddon Black (normal paint) over the flamer nozzle to simulate scorch marks. The base rims are done in Steel Legion Drab (normal paint).

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Glue mud, static grass and battlefield tufts to the bases and once dry, mat varnish them. Then apply gloss varnish to the lenses (much cheatier than ‘properly’ painting them!).

And you’re done!

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